Elberry Cove, Devon: A Hidden Cove, a Ruined Bathhouse and Agatha Christie

Elberry Cove is one of my favourite magic beaches in Devon.

We discovered it – or rather, rediscovered it – as part of stretching out my early birthday weekend in Totnes. Tucked between Brixham and Paignton, it sits less than an hour from Exeter, and yet somehow it feels like another world entirely.

Elberry is accessible only on foot, which adds to its charm. To reach it, park at Broadsands (postcode TQ4 6HY) and follow the South West Coast Path heading south. The walk takes about 20 minutes along a coastline path, offering stunning views of the sea on one side and woodland on the other. This journey provides a sense of achievement and anticipation for what lies ahead.

What comes next is Elberry Cove: steeply shelving, pebbly, and completely gorgeous. The waters here are renowned for being crystal clear and beautifully calm, sheltered by the surrounding woodland on all sides. We went in, obviously.

At the eastern end of the beach stand the ruins of Elberry Bathhouse, built for Lord Churston in the 18th century at the height of the seawater bathing craze – itself sparked by George III’s famous dip at Weymouth. The building rose three storeys above the shore, with the lower floor flooding with the tide, allowing Lord Churston to slip discreetly through a gated doorway and straight into the sea. Essentially the Georgian equivalent of a private spa. Now it sits in elegant ruin, which suits it perfectly.

Elberry Cove was Agatha Christie’s favourite bathing spot – and her holiday home at Greenway is just up the coast. She set a scene here too: the cove appears in The ABC Murders as the location of Sir Carmichael Clarke’s death. So if the water feels a little dramatic, that’s probably why.

Elberry is also on the official Agatha Christie Literary Trail if you want to make a proper day of it across Torbay.

The waters off Elberry Cove are home to important eelgrass beds – and those beds are a breeding ground for seahorses. You probably won’t spot one, but the knowledge that they’re down there adds something to the experience.

If you’re feeling adventurous after Elberry, carry on around the headland, and you’ll find the twin coves of Churston and Fishcombe waiting. Three dips, one walk, no complaints. It’s the kind of Devon day that makes you wonder why you ever book holidays abroad.

The Practical Bits

• Park at Broadsands car park (TQ4 6HY) and follow the South West Coast Path south – about 20 minutes on foot
• Elberry is pebble rather than sand and steeply shelving – water shoes are worth packing and take care getting in
• No lifeguard service – check conditions before entering and avoid swimming alone or in rough water
• No facilities at the cove itself; nearest toilets are back at Broadsands
• Dogs welcome all year round
• Water skiing takes place here in summer, so be aware of the ski lane when swimming
• Kayaking and canoeing are also popular – the calm waters make it ideal

Devon, you never disappoint.

Another beach you might want to visit.